The hammam, descended from the Roman bath, is the Moroccan version of a Turkish bath -- very hot, lots of running water, but less steam -- and is used by all Moroccans at least once a week. Muslims modified their use to ritual ablutions before prayer in the mosque, often situated adjacent to the hammam. Large mosques have their own hammam complexes.

If you are shy, prefer to be alone, or want to share the hammam with a companion of the opposite sex, go to a hotel hammam, since the public ones are segregated and generally quite busy. While many hotels have a hammam, they are not as hot as public ones, and not all are open to nonguests. The price is usually between 150 DH and 300 DH per person, including bath products and a tayaba (an attendant who will wash you).

In their heyday the baths must have been quite impressive, with their large tiled rooms of varying temperatures and huge domed antechamber skirted with inset stone benches. Most hammams have separate men's and women's baths, but Hammam el Basha opens at different times for each gender.

For the public hammam, take towels and toiletries. A brown olive-oil soap called saboon bildi can be purchased on-site. You also need a scruffing mitt called al kees. If you hire a tayaba, she will have one, or, if you prefer to bathe yourself, purchase one in the souk before you go. It's also a good idea to purchase a small rubber mat to sit on, and a small plastic bowl for pouring water over you. Buy a handful of Ghassoul (clay earth Shampoo) to give your hair a special treat. Note that it's better not to go to the public bath on a Thursday evening or Friday, the Muslim holy day, as these days are quite crowded. Also, hair dryers are not permitted, so take an extra towel to use as a turban.

Public hammams cost about 15 DH; this includes the use of an open cubbyhole for your belongings (leave valuables back at the hotel), two to three black rubber buckets, and all the hot water you desire. You can either bathe yourself or request a tayaba for a fee of 30 DH-50 DH, depending on how much water fetching and body scrubbing is required. It's a one-of-a-kind experience having someone give you a whole soaping, scrubbing-cum-massage, and extra-thorough rinsing while lying languorously on warm tiles. Have a Nice Bath..!